Kristan BauerPopular sport and trad climbing routes at City of Rocks
Climbing at the City of Rocks National Reserve is a magical experience. The landscape is covered with endless rock fields and features. It literally looks like a climber’s playground. Not to mention the adjacent Castle Rock State Park, which is equally as impressive.
The City of Rocks is definitely worth a trip if you’re looking for fun, varied climbing. City of Rocks has rock climbing for all different skill levels and preferences, including sport climbing, trad, single pitch, and multi-pitch routes.
There are even numerous hiking trails around that can still be fun if you’re not into climbing and just want to go camping at the City of Rocks.
One of my favorite things about the City of Rocks is that the campsites are dispersed throughout the park among the climbing features and boulders. If you’re lucky, you could be camping across the street from Elephant Rock or Bath Rock.
Many campsites are nestled in the rocks and next to boulders where you can scramble up to the top and enjoy the sights or a picnic. Since the City of Rocks is a popular destination, it can be crowded on weekends and campsites need to be booked far in advance
We’ve been to the City of Rocks numerous times and always have fun climbing. The climbing is enjoyable, varied and the rock quality is solid. The granite is varnished and pocketed providing fun features and edging.
Check out the City of Rocks Idaho: A Climber’s Guide for detailed route information on climbs throughout the park.
Popular Climbing Routes
Most routes have mixed protection, so be sure to read the guide books and know your beta before climbing. While the majority of routes are single pitch, there are definitely good multi-pitch routes at City of Rocks and especially at Castle Rock. Here are favorite classic climbs at the City of Rocks, all single pitch routes.
Wheat Thin, Elephant Rock
Rating: Trad, 5.7
Length: 1 pitch, 120’
This is one of the most enjoyable 5.7 routes I’ve ever climbed. Wheat Thin follows a thin flake feature up the east side of Elephant Rock. The climb starts out fairly easy and then steepens towards the top of the flake for mixed hand jamming and face climbing to the top.
Be sure to bring a 70 meter or 2x 60 meter ropes for the rappel from fixed anchors on the top.
Skyline, Morning Glory Spire
Rating: Trad, 5.8
Length: 1 pitch, 100’
Skyline goes up the NW skyline of the beautiful Morning Glory Spire. This route is a fun, featured trad climb with cracks, flakes, and face climbing.
Follow the crack/flake system up to the crux of the route, which is a somewhat spicy under-cling move traversing to the left (this move can be challenging to protect).
Keep climbing up this new crack system and move out on to the leftward face for easy juggy climbing to the top (there’s not a lot of protection here either until you reach the summit).
Private Idaho, Bath Rock
Rating: Trad, 5.9
Length: 1 pitch, 90’
Private Idaho follows a corner crack system up to the left of Colossus (mentioned below), which is on the backside (west side) of Bath Rock. It’s pretty straightforward crack climbing up the featured patina rock.
Colossus, Bath Rock
Rating: Sport, 5.10c
Length: 1 pitch, 80’
Colossus is a popular route on the backside (west side) of Bath Rock. The route trends leftward through a low roof and a few huecos. The main crux is pulling left through a large hueco, which is about 60 feet into the climb.
Tribal Boundaries, Flaming Rock
Rating: Sport, 5.10a
Length: 1 pitch, 60’
Tribal Boundaries is one of the more scenic climbs at the City of Rocks. The route runs on the northern end of the west face of Flaming Rock. There are two routes from the belay start and Tribal Boundaries is the left bolted line (there’s also a bolt for the belayer at the start).
The Tribal Boundaries sport route is a fun, featured climb with ample patina edging and a sloping finish.
If you go climbing at City of Rocks…
Check out the City of Rocks Idaho: A Climber’s Guide for detailed route information on climbs throughout the park.
Driving Instructions
Driving from Boise:
It’s about a 3-hour 15-minute drive from Boise. Drive east on I-84 until exit 208 for Burley, ID. Continue south on Highway 27 until Oakley, then take a left at East Main Street, which turns into Birch Creek Road. Stay on this for about 12 miles and then take a left on the City of Rocks access road (Emery Canyon Road) leading to the park.
Driving from Salt Lake City:
It’s about a 3-hour drive from Salt Lake City. Drive north on I-15 (I-15 and I-84 eventually merge) and take exit 5 on I-84. Turn left on Highway 30, which eventually turns into Highway 42 and 81. Turn left on Strevell Road and turn right after about 16 miles then left onto Ey Road. You’ll hit the Elba-Almo Road and turn right then shortly after a left into the park access road.
Climbing Questions
What’s the best time to climb at the City of Rocks?
The best time of year to rock climb at the City of Rocks is early summer to fall (June to October). The snow is typically melted by June.
Is it busy climbing at City of Rocks?
Yes, it can get very busy during the summer months at the City of Rocks National Reserve. City of Rocks has become a more popular destination over the years, making available climbing routes more competitive (that means you’ll likely need to get up earlier to climb or wait for your turn).
Check out detailed trip reports for climbing routes at City of Rocks at MountainProject.
Camping Reservations
Camping can be reserved online at Reserve America. The National Park Service provides a helpful campsite guide with information on locations and types of campsites (my favorite spot is #46).
There’s also the Smoky Mountain Campground just 2 miles from the park entrance with pull-through RV sites. They also have yurts at the Smoky Mountain Campground too. The Smoky Mountain Campground can be a little confusing to find – once you’ve turned down the access road to City of Rocks, take your first left and continue past the RV dump station and equestrian campsites.
Feature photo courtesy of Visitidaho.gov
Have you been climbing at City of Rocks before? Or planning your first trip there? Share your experience in the comments below!
Updated: January 1, 2021
